DAY 20 - Caldwell, ID - 404 Miles from Home

Today we officially made it to Idaho. But we've nonetheless managed to cross the Snake River - the natural border between Oregon and Idaho - four times: we crossed it once when we drove to our lodging last night in Payette, ID.... Then for a second time when I drove Bob back to Oregon in the inky pre-dawn to start his hike today in Nyssa... Then for a third time as I drove back to Idaho to pick up our newest pilgrim, Ed Markiewicz, who'd flown into Boise... Then fourth and finally we crossed the river on foot when Bob hiked across on Hwy 26.

That's a lot of boundary crossing for one group of pilgrims, methinks.

Meanwhile: we're really not in the high desert anymore. Today was a day of Ubers and Albertson's and multi-lane roadways. Ed got dropped off by Uber driver Kristine in front of aforementioned Albertson's at 7:35 this morning. A couple of pastries, some coffee, and then - boom - we're in Libby heading back across the border, to find Bob at the mid-morning rendezvous point: a burger joint in Parma, Idaho, literally named "Burger Joint."

Then Ed and I took off down a dusty and busy Hwy 20. Corn, hops, sugar beets, wheat crops lining the road beside us. The only relief from the wall of crops, the traffic noise and the diesel fumes was to be found in the irrigation ditches by the side of the road: big swaths of dirt, forming a kind of frontage. At first glance, there was nothing here but dried dirt and scattered garbage, dessicated road kill... Yet this dirt was also teeming with life: magpies, hawks, a 'volunteer' plant bursting through caked mud, mosquitos, delicate moths... But still: this stretch of road - not my favorite. A shadeless, nearly featureless, noisy, dirty stretch of miles that did not put the "gem" in "Gem State."

Now, keep in mind - Ed just flew in from the east coast last night - and today he's traipsing in irrigation ditches for some 5 hours. He's a beast. He just kept going.

Thirteen miles later, we rendezvous'd with Bob and drove to our home for the next two days: St. David's Episcopal Church in Caldwell. Senior Warden Sylvia Huntington met us warmly with her granddaughter Erin in tow. Sylvia showed us around the beautiful kitchen, parish hall, impeccable bathrooms... and shared with us a bit of the church's history. St. David's is another beautiful traditional church with declining membership... Maybe a dozen aging parishoners at this point. But these churches are making it work.... eking out their 21st-century relevance and maintaining their footprint.

A case in point: as a walker I immediately noticed the labyrinth in front of St. David's. When I marveled at it, Sylvia shrugged and said - oh yeah, the heliport.

??

Apparently the labyrinth is both ancient soul practice and modern day landing pad. West Valley Medical Center is directly across the street from St. David's, and LifeFlight helicopters actually do come in for a landing right there - on the lawn in front of the church, at the center of the labyrinth - where a white dove is painted. What happens if you're on the labyrinth when a helicopter flies in? I asked. "Oh, people from the hospital run out - and folks know to get out of the way. Sometimes we even hold services out here. Folks know the sound of the helicopter."

Sylvia invited us to enjoy the labyrinth nonetheless. "It's really nice in the evening."

Solvitur ambulando, as the ancient philosophers used to say. It is solved through walking.

Ed arrives in his Uber. One more pilgrim ready to rumble.

Dawnavan at Albertson's in Caldwell. Friendly, helpful, kind - and all this at 7 a.m.

Ed by the only shade for miles: a haystack.

And when I say haystack, I mean a huge frickin' stack of hay.

Sylvia Huffington (right) - our wonderful host at St. David's - along with her granddaughter, Erin.

St. David's Episcopal Church, Caldwell, Idaho.

Labyrinth and Heliport, St. David's & Valley West Medical Center.

Ending the day with IPA at Grit 2C in Caldwell.