DAYS 72 & 73 - Nenzel, NE - 1390 miles from home

"A town can't survive without a grocery."

What keeps a community alive? How do strangers become neighbors? How do neighbors become friends?

John Rotness tells us: "A town can't survive without a grocery." I believe him; he knows about such things. He was one of the good folk of Hay Springs who helped establish the town's cooperative grocery store, Farm to Family. When I visited Farm to Family the other day, a little kid and her mom were buying some treats, and a few minutes later another mom strolled in to buy detergent. Walking the aisles I recognized that there was a little bit of pretty much everything a person would need - although maybe not all the things that a person might want.

Today, walking through Cody (population 172), I saw their grocery store - the Circle C, which is both Nebraska's only straw bale constructed grocery and its only student-run grocery: managed and staffed by students in the Cody-Kilgore schools. But I wasn't able to visit the Circle C this weekend. It's Homecoming. "We apologize for any inconvenience," the store posted on Facebook. " [We] will be open between the football and volleyball game. Then will be closed for the rest of the day."

Instead, I visited one of Gordon's two grocery stores. The Grocery Mart was fully stocked, and staffed with incredibly helpful and earnest young folks. "Ma'am did you find what you needed?" Yes, young man I did - but I also bought what I wanted: Greek yogurt, maple syrup, two boxes of frosted blueberry Pop Tarts. (Please don't judge me!)

Understandably, food is at the heart of everything. Strolling through Gordon's annual Willow Tree Festival yesterday with our hosts Sandi and Wayne, I fixated on Tricia Thayer and Traci Westemeier's gourmet caramel apples. Sandi and I shared a gargantuan 'turtle' apple: caramel, chocolate, peanuts, granny smith. The contrast between the crunchy-salty, the chewy-sweet, and the crispy-tart was so extraordinary - and this pilgrim's appetite was so voractious - that I bit the inside of my cheek with my second bite. Or so I thought. But moments later, my face started to grow numb. My jaw started to throb. I'd been stung by a wasp mid-apple, and I'm actually allergic to wasp stings.

Finding community may not be as hard as you think, especially when dangerous caramel apples are involved. At this point in my Nebraska sojourn, I actually seem to know a small bunch of people. Cheryl came by, noticed my swollen face. "Do you need a Benadryl?" Why yes, yes I do. She opened her magic grandma's purse and pulled out a bottle.

As the swelling subsided, Sandi and I continued to stroll the festival's perimeter. We ran into Denver and Bonnie and Jean - folks we'd met two nights earlier at the Methodist Church in Rushville. Bonnie and Denver live in Amherst, NE - were just in this part of the state for a few days.

As it turns out, just a couple of days earlier Denver had also run into and old friend and former teaching colleague: Brent Nollette. And... Brent just happens to be the nephew of our host for the next couple of days, here in Nenzel: Neal Nollette, a.k.a. Padre Pete (Neal is a retired priest). Padre Pete's brothers own the Niobrara Valley Vineyard and RV campground. And there was his nephew, Brent, at the counter in the Vineyard's event center. Brent took my order and brought me a glass of wine.

That was a tasty burger, and a mighty nice glass of red. And no stinging insects were involved.

Today Bob and I were back on the trail. It rained all day. The Sandhills were saturated and we got soaked too. The cows by the side of the road seemed more agitated than usual - bellowing at me for a full half-mile as I walked by. Bob had a disconcerting encounter with an irritated rancher. As I type these words, my sneakers are stuffed with paper towels to dry out; Bob's and my clothes are hanging up in Libby's teeny bathroom, still dripping wet. This pilgrimage is not all caramel and roses. The way gets unruly, and soggy, and dispiriting at times.

And yet - at mile 11.5 today, Padre Pete pulled up unexpectedly in his bright blue hybrid - catching us on the road to offer encouraging words, before he left Nenzel on business. Like yesterday's hummingbird, a dash of cheer when needed.

Running into Jean, Denver and Bonnie at the Willow Tree Festival.

The Gordon Grocery Mart. (The other grocery store - not counting Dollar General - is Super Foods.)

Selfie with "wasp sting lips."

The Gordon Willow Tree Festival Gazebo Stage - featuring the 17th Avenue Allstars.

The 17th Avenue Allstars. (I was not expecting this.)

Grape Stomping at the Niobrara Valley Vineyards.

Measuring grape stompage is serious, exacting work.

Brent Nollette - Vocational Agriculture teacher in Valentine - and vintner in Nenzel.

Padre Pete - in costume for the Grape Stomp.

The Nebraska Sandhills, soaked by the rain.

Padre Pete on the road.

The cows are restless and slightly scary.

A lone Sandhills picnic table.

Back at the rig. Skies clearing.