DAYS 96 & 97 - Des Moines, IA - 1850 miles from home

Before this pilgrimage, pretty much all I knew about Iowa I learned from Meredith Willson and The Music Man. Of course - this is like learning about my hometown, Chicago, from watching Catherine Zeta Jones vamp it up in that musical... Not to mention that Willson’s Iowa was based on his birthplace, Mason City - north and close to the Minnesota border. We, on the other hand, are mostly traveling through southern Iowa, close to Missouri and crossing over the Mississippi next week in the furthest southeastern corner of the state. So maybe that's why I keep looking in vain for Willson's "Iowa stubborn." Instead I am only finding "Iowa nice."

Iowa nice isn't just friendliness and generosity. We've encountered such kindness repeatedly on this trek: the open heart that becomes available, magically and bountifully, on the open road.

Iowa nice, however, carries something unique with it. A contented ease, perhaps? A common-sense outlook and straightforwardness that sees hills instead of mountains? A preference toward smiles and helpfulness - while nonetheless allowing for distance, privacy, difference...? The Iowa state motto is perhaps telling in this context: "Our liberties we prize, our rights we will maintain." Along with kindness there is respect.

I dunno. I have a thimble-ful of knowledge here; I've been walking through one little slice of this state for just over a week! But maybe if I can't quite define "Iowa nice" - I can at least illustrate it:

Iowa nice is the Pearson family - gorgeous broad smiles and kind help on the open road. (See them in my blogs here and here.) I've now met both daughters - and just learned that the young man who kindly helped Bob and Chris by stopping his utility van to restrain a stray (Iowa-nice) dog, that young man was the Pearson son. How do these things happen?

Iowa nice is the welcoming teachers and practitioners at the Des Moines Zen Center. Head teacher Reverend Eishin Houghton was leaving town early the next day, with a long drive ahead of him, for a very special celebration at Ryumonji Monastery - but nonetheless he accommodated our crazy hiking schedule and chauffeured me to a sweet cafe for a chance to meet before he left. The next evening, Reverend Gendo Thornberry and the venerable Reverend Eido Espe greeted me at the Zen Center. There I met lay leader Vicki Goldsmith - who, in the one-degree-of-separation that has characterized this whole pilgrimage - turns out to be a dear friend of my cousin-in-law and fellow Des Moinesian Deborah... Meanwhile Deborah herself has strong and cherished memories about Ben and Joyce Swartz, parents of our hosts in Des Moines!

One-degree-of-separation may well be a key feature of Iowa nice.

At the Zen Center I had the opportunity to meditate in a loving community, and to share my reflections from the road. I talked about the power of empathy, about my delight at how easy it is to love the folks we meet, connecting so deeply with so many people who, on the surface, are so different from me... I talked about bursting out of my bubble and aiming to dissolve an "us/them" mentality. Without missing a beat and with a deep twinkle in his eye, Rev. Eido said, "You coastal people are always surprised about how easy it is to get along here!" Ha! See what he did there?!?

And Iowa nice is Nina and Madison - two lovely supporters of Liberty Walks who drove three hours from Iowa City to join us at the Center. Nina teaches writing at the University of Iowa; Madison has returned to school to work on her Masters of Divinity (and perhaps... her doctorate???) (Nina: let's talk about Tarot cards and mindfulness soon! Madison: keep me posted about your work on pilgrimage!)

But, finally, Iowa nice is superlatively and supremely our hosts in Des Moines: David and Denise Swartz. Denise of the Magic Kitchen; David of the Miracle Fire Pit. We had four glorious meals and many interim noshes during our two nights in their beautiful home. We were shown the town, including the utterly splendid 1930s-era Synagogue Bnai Jeshurun (oh my that sanctuary with those windows and woodwork!) and the downtown wonders of the Pappajohn Sculpture Garden and the 1870s capitol, with its gilded cupola and extraordinary hilltop view.... And of course, no brilliant ambassador duo would be complete without a very fine doggo. Cocoa the rescue lab - huntress and belly-rub connoisseur. Cocoa won't lick your nose unless you ask for it (okay, guilty as charged). She's kind but respectful: the canine epitome of Iowa nice.

Day 97. Cocoa Swartz. Des Moines, IA.

Denise Swartz, Des Moines, IA. (I am trying to make her laugh - and it's really easy!)

David Swartz, getting ready to light the grill (fire pit comes later!)

Day 96. Route 34 - on our way toward Lucas and Chariton, IA.

Three white-tail deer. Route 34.

Day 96. Route 34. Undulating hills. A crystal-clear autumn day.

Contented shorn sheep. Lucas, IA.

Libby in repose; hay bales on the hill. Lucas, IA. After this photo was taken, we drove north from Lucas to Des Moines.

Day 97 began with a much needed oil change. Thank you, Sh*t Show Supervisor Elijah! Jiffy Lube, Des Moines, IA.

David Swartz organized a meet-and-greet with fellow Rotarians. Hosted at the very hip Smokey Row Coffeehouse. Des Moines, IA.

Steve and David at Smokey Row.

Susan, Rotarian, CFO, Adventurer - at Smokey Row. (Susan: I think you do want to join us on the Walk, no???)

"Nomade" by Jaume Plensa. Papajohn Sculpture Garden.

Vicki Goldsmith, Lay leader. Des Moines Zen Center.

Nina and Madison - all the way from Iowa City. Des Moines Zen Center.

Jody Swilke and Rev. Eido Espy. Des Moines Zen Center.

Rev. Gendo Thornberry, Des Moines Zen Center.